Learning to spray paint your classic car, truck or hot rod like the paint shops doesn’t need to take years to master.
In this short space, it is impossible to go into detail at any length, so the following is a brief guideline to ensure quality workmanship and minimal negative comebacks. Of course, guidelines must be established.
Setting the Expectations:
Good training is reflected in quality work, as bad training is reflected in bad work, and prohibitive costs result due to comebacks.
Contaminates that float around can ruin a paint job, and that applies to the surface, and the shop as well. To do this make sure, there is adequate filtration, and that it is frequently cleaned to the point of being almost sterile. Minute dust particles and hair are the worst offenders, making technicians walking dust magnets if the filtration system is inadequate.
Every day, and before each job, the shop must be thoroughly cleaned, top to bottom, as much as possible. Keep the spray booth clean always, and thoroughly wash it weekly. Check filter regularly and replace when necessary, as it affects health.
Before starting a job, make sure there is nothing like lamps mirrors, etc. around because they can cause cracking in the topcoat and the clear coat.
Before doing any surface prep, thoroughly wash the surface, all you need is plain old soap and water, because it removes all water- soluble material that can cause damage later. The vehicle must be scuffed with detergent and hot water to remove wax and sealants.
Prepping the Paint Surface:
You might want to try some fine waterproof sandpaper to scrub the surface. Some people like to
use the scuff pads, those gray nylon types. Removing the painted area that has become damaged
requires some grinding. Ideally, you will need sandpaper that is 80 grit and an orbital sander.
You will need to concentrate your grinding along the paint area that is damaged. In order to be
successful you will have to see at least a quarter of an inch of color coat as well as clear coat
and of course the undercoat as well. So the next step will be to featheredge the etching filler.
This can be done right over the body filler or even on the bare metal. The purpose here is to
provide protection both in adhesion and corrosion.
Once you have reached this stage then the next will be for the surface primer. It’s easy to see though that by setting and following guidelines and expectations that everyone knows what their job is and what they are responsible for. If there is a problem and a repair comeback shows up it becomes easier to determine where the breakdown occurred. This way you can go back to the drawing board so to speak and correct the problems where they are happening.
Checkout this 4 minute video on how to spray paint a hot rod: https://youtu.be/jg6YOKdHkXQ
For more information visit: http://classiccarenvy.com/car-spray-paint-tips-techniques/
